It’s been such a long time, I almost forgot about this site. The truth is, the original intent was to keep family and friends up to date on our whereabouts and adventures while we traveled full-time in our motorhome. Since settling at Viewpoint in Mesa, Arizona, we have fewer travels and adventures to report.
We keep busy and our days are full of activity nonetheless though, it just gets repetitive to blog about it. Donna has her hands full with her non-profit group, Viewpoint Good Neighbors (www.vpgoodneighbors.org). There’s also the Viewpoint Tennis Club and league matches, her clarinet playing in the concert band, some golf when time allows and monthly flights to San Diego to check in and visit her mother.
I’m also active in the tennis club, playing recreationally and in league matches. I also participate as a league scorekeeper for the East Valley Senior Tennis League. I also string tennis racquets and my latest hobby/learning experience is building wristwatches. I could go on for pages about that, but for most people it’s probably a boring subject.
The reason for today’s post is a bit of a rant about car maintenance in general and battery replacement. Our Jeep Compass is equipped with two batteries. One is the “main” starter battery and the other is an “auxilliary” battery. The main battery starts the engine and provides electrical storage for various functions. Modern automobiles rely heavily on electronics and need a stable source of electrical energy.
The auxilliary battery is a small (Group 400) battery that has a primary function (or so I thought) of operating a few accessories when using the start/stop function. This is a superfluous feature that will shut off the engine when stopped in traffic for a few minutes, then restart the engine when you release the brake pedal. It’s design goal is to reduce fuel consumption and emissions during an EPA test cycle. In the real world, the effects are minimal at best. I habitually disable the system by pressing a button on the console after I start the engine.
We started getting a warning light on the instrument panel showing the start/stop as inoperative. Around the same time I also noticed the starter motor struggling a few times to start the engine after it had been driven. I suspected bad batteries and tested them. They were down to about 50% capacity. It was time to replace them before we ended up stranded with dead batteries.
I found suitable replacements online and went to Batteries Plus to buy a new Group 47 main battery and the aforementioned auxilliary battery. Their prices looked good and they showed both batteries in stock a few miles from home.
When I went to buy the batteries, I found the prices were higher than what I saw online. I asked about this and was told that online pricing and walk-in retail pricing weren’t the same. I asked if they would honor the online offer. The answers was no, they couldn’t do that but they would give me a 10% discount. This wasn’t enough to offset the pricing difference.
So, I said, “What if I ordered them online for in-store pick-up?” They said that would work. I stood there in front of their counter and used my smart phone to access the site and placed the order – to add icing on top I found a 15% discount coupon that I applied at check out! I saved over $90 this way. Insane way to do business, right?
Back at home,I removed the old batteries. Then I went to retrieve the new batteries from the rear cargo area of the Jeep. Well, without electrical power, the rear hatch cannot be operated. The latching mechanism is electrically operated with no mechanical means of opening it. This is the bane of modern vehicles relying solely on electronics for simple operations. I ended up folding down the rear seat and wrestling the heavy battery out of the back.
The connections on the auxilliary battery were interesting. There was a square, black box on top housing some type of integrated circuit. I had no idea of what its function was. I looked online but couldn’t find a wiring diagram or schematic for the vehicle that would give an overview of the system and how things interface. Obviously the auxilliary battery isn’t as straight forward as I assumed. When I disconnected the auxilliary battery, I made a mistake. I disconnected the negative terminal first – this is standard procedure to prevent a short from positive to ground when you remove the positive lead. Well, unbeknownst to me, the negative cable sprung itself back against the negative terminal making contact. I accidentally touched my wrench against a metal component while removing the positive terminal and this created a short to ground and a mighty electrical arc.

I tucked the negative terminal under a nearby plastic tab and carried on – I should have done this from the start. I was a little concerned about the arc – this spark could cause a current surge through any active part of the electrical system connected to the auxilliary battery.
Modern cars contain computer networks with various functions and components electrically tied together. When you remove all power, some things need to be reset. This is best performed with a scan tool, but there are workarounds built into the software. After connecting the new batteries, I did a reset for throttle position and the infotainment system, then started checking functions. All was good except for one thing. The power door locks were inoperable as was the rear hatch latch.
I suspected a blown fuse from the battery arcing to ground and sending a power surge through the door lock/rear hatch circuit. This circuit is active all of the time to allow you to remotely unlock the car with the key fob. Now I had to track down the fuse without a wiring diagram.
There is a fuse panel in the engine compartment near the battery. I went through every fuse looking for a open fuse but didn’t find anything. The panel isn’t marked in any way to identify which circuit ran though each fuse. I did some digging online and after searching, I found a reference to fuse F38 in the interior fuse panel which is the door lock and rear hatch circuit. But, it didn’t tell me anything about where the interior fuse panel or F38 was located. I crawled around looking in all the usual places, under the dash or behind anything that could be an access panel. No luck.
After some more time searching online, I found a YouTube video of a guy adding an accessory to his Jeep Compass and he connected the power feed of this accessory to F38 at the fuse panel. I sat through a portion of his video to see where he found the fuse panel.
Before I go on, I should say that I’ve spent some time in a number of automobile factories in Germany, Slovakia, Portugal, Mexico and the USA. One thing you see there is the assembly-line build sequence. Typically the wiring harness with connectors is one of the first things installed in the body. From there, various parts are added and components are plugged into the harness as they go along and eventually the interior is built around them.
Well, this works well for assembly, but sometimes results in unintended servicing consequences. In an electrical circuit, a fuse or circuit breaker is there to protect components and wiring from excessive current. The fuse itself is expendable, meant to blow and open the circuit before damage occurs. They are consumables that should be easily replaced instead of replacing expensive components or rewiring burnt harnesses. So, with that in mind, you would think the logical thing to do would be to place the fuse panel in an easily accessible location.
Not so much with the Jeep interior fuse panel. They put the panel against the firewall on the driver’s side, above and to the left of the brake pedal. This put it behind wiring bundles in a small space squeezed in between the steering column and other bits. To reach it, first the lower dash panel needed to be removed. To remove the lower dash panel, the end plate of the dash facing the driver’s door needed to be removed. It was like peeling an onion. Once exposed, it was a very tight space and I could barely reach my hand in there, scraping against other parts in the way.
To make matters worse, once I started disassembling the lower panel, I found half of the fasteners were phillips head screws, but others were #20 torx fasteners. I used to have a complete set of torx drivers but they were lost when our trailer was stolen in San DIego. I haven’t needed them in the last 10 years or so, so I never replaced them. That meant a trip to Harbor Freight was up next to buy a new set.

I was able to get fuse F38 out of the panel with a large hemostat, getting fingers on it was impossible. I installed a new fuse and presto! The door locks and rear hatch worked like new.

So that’s my rant about how a 30-minute battery change job turned into hours spent researching and peeling away parts. Next up, it looks like our golf cart batteries are nearing end-of-life. That’ll surely be a fun project!
Have a happy new year everyone and all the best for the year ahead.
























































