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The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

It’s 7am Tuesday morning as I write this. We’re at the KOA campground near St. Mary, Montana. It’s at the east entrance to Glacier National Park. It’s a bit chilly this morning, 47 degrees. The elevation here is 4,500 feet above sea level. The sun just rose over the eastern ridgeline across the St. Mary River. I expect the day to warm up quickly.

The past few days we covered a lot of ground. I’ll have to break this up into two posts as the tale will get too long.

Sunday morning we left the Walmart in Sheridan, Wyoming. I topped up the fuel tank with 44 gallons of gas. We left I-90 and headed west on WY14. This route took us over the Big Horn Mountains. It has several long, steep grades and finally tops out over 9,000 feet above sea level at Granite Pass. It was slow going. Compounding the effort of the steep grade was a stiff head wind from the west.

In a situation like this, it’s tempting to just mash down on the pedal and give her all she’s got. I’m more sympathetic to machinery than that. In my opinion, running at wide open throttle for extended periods of time is not conducive to long-term durability. So, on long, steep climbs I gear down, allow the vehicle speed to drop and maintain a reasonable load on the powertrain.

In the Big Horn Mountains and later in the Absoroka Range, it meant dropping to second gear and slowing to 35-40 mph or less at times. Our rig is powered by an 8.1 liter (496 cubic inch) GM Vortec gasoline engine. Normally aspirated gasoline engines suffer from a double whammy when traveling through high mountains.

Climbing up in the atmosphere, I’m requesting enough torque to propel a rig weighing over 25,000 lbs upward against gravity. We also have the drag coefficient of a barn door to overcome against a headwind in this case. The real issue that becomes a factor though is called density altitude . As we climb higher, the air becomes thinner.

Internal combustion engines work by combining fuel with oxygen in the air and burning it. As the atmosphere becomes thinner, there are fewer oxygen molecules to combine with the fuel. The fuel injection system senses this though the exhaust content and regulates the amount of fuel injected to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. The ambient temperature rose into the 90s, further thinning the air. Bottom line is less fuel equals less power.

So here we are, climbing over a 9,000-foot pass with a heavily loaded RV and our engine isn’t capable of producing maximum power. That’s why I’m in second gear and plodding along. I was wishing for a turbo diesel engine at that point. Turbo chargers were originally developed for aircraft. Turbochargers negate the effect of altitude as they force air into the engine.

Alright, back to our story. Once we crested the summit, we had to contend with steep downhill grades. When I say steep grades, WY14 has grades as steep as 9%! I used second or third gear on the down grades to utilize engine compression to retard the pull of gravity. Engine compression alone isn’t enough to stop us from speeding down the mountain. I would stab the brake pedal hard enough to quickly reduce our speed by 5 mph, then release the brakes and allow them to cool.

I repeated this procedure as necessary to maintain my desired speed. Riding the brake to keep a steady downhill speed results in over-heated brakes which become ineffective. Scary thought.

We stopped in a little town called Graybull. I parked on the street and took a stroll while Donna made our lunch. The town was quiet; all of the shops were closed on Sunday. After lunch we continued west. The terrain was mostly flat. It had the appearance of badlands at times. Other parts were agricultural. The headwind became even stronger as the day wore on.

Bicyclists know headwinds can be demoralizing. This is also the case in a big vehicle with poor aerodynamic qualities. The slightest uphill grade required me to de-activate the overdrive and run higher rpms for power.

Eventually we began the climb up the Absorokas into Yellowstone. This climb is every bit as hard as the climb through the Big Horns. We were in second gear through much of the ascent. The viscous coupling on the radiator fan was fully engaged most of the time, drawing air through the engine coolant radiator and transmission cooler. When it’s fully engaged, the fan makes a roaring sound. Normally the speed of the vehicle passes enough air through the radiator and the fan is not engaged.

While climbing in second gear at 30-35 mph, the engine and transmission are heating up and the normal airflow through the radiator isn’t able to keep the temperature under control. The fan does a good job though. Our coolant temperature would quickly drop to 195 degrees with the fan engaged.

At the entrance to Yellowstone National Park, we pulled in behind a car at the toll gate.  As we sat there idling with A/C keeping us cool, I was mindful of how narrow the gate was. I was concerned about catching a side view mirror as we passed though. The car in front of us must have been playing 20 questions with the park ranger.

We sat for several minutes before they pulled away and we could enter. I showed the ranger our National Parks annual pass and was given some literature and waved through. I pressed the accelerator and felt the engine start to pull, then I felt a loss of power. The engine rpms went down to 300, fluttered a bit and then the engine died.

This never happened before. I restarted the engine. When I put it in gear, the rpms went down again and it stalled. Uh oh. I cranked it over again and it started. I revved the engine once it started and it seemed okay. I put it in gear and it was fine as we pulled away.

The east entrance to Yellowstone is a steep uphill grind. Here we go again in second gear with the radiator fan roaring. The speed limit was 45 mph but at times, I couldn’t maintain that without running pedal to the metal. At one point I pulled into a turn out to let a few cars following me go past.

I sat there idling for couple of minutes as more cars appeared from below. Finally there was a break in the traffic and I started to accelerate out of the turn out. I felt the engine lose power, the rpms dropped to 300 and then it stalled. This time it wouldn’t start when I cranked it over.

I got out and looked in the engine compartment. The under hood temperature was quite high. I thought about the series of events. It wasn’t a misfire that would suggest an ignition problem. It felt like a fuel delivery problem. Donna asked me what I was going to do. I said we do nothing. We wait a bit and the let wind cool the engine compartment.

My theory was that we had fuel boiling in the fuel rail. The fan was pulling hot air through the A/C condenser, the transmission cooler and the engine radiator. This was creating high under hood temperature when we were stationary or moving slowly. Boiling fuel in the line is known as vapor lock.

After ten minutes or so, the engine fired up and we were on our way. I was pretty confident in my diagnosis. We climbed to the summit in second gear. As we crested the summit, I put the transmission selector into drive and released the pressure on the accelerator pedal so it would upshift. When I did that, something didn’t feel right. I watched the tachometer drop to 300 rpms, flutter, then fall to zero as we coasted down the other side of the summit.

I told Donna the engine quit. I said we can coast down hill and it will quickly cool. I also told her I no longer had power steering without the engine running. She wasn’t thrilled about coasting down a steep grade without power steering. She asked if we had brakes. The ABS brake system on our chassis has a back-up electric motor on the ABS pump. I told her brakes were not a problem and concentrated on steering.

We picked up speed and were coasting down the hill at about 40 mph. At that speed, the steering effort wasn’t too high. There was an incline ahead. The incline would slow us down, possibly even to a stop in the middle of the road. There wasn’t a shoulder to pull off of the narrow roadway. At the bottom of the grade I spotted a turn out on the left side of the road that looked just big enough for us to fit. I muscled our rig into it as I braked to a stop. If my vapor lock theory was correct, coasting down the hill should have cooled the engine compartment. I started the engine. It fired up and we drove away.

At this point, I smartened up and turned off the dash A/C. Air conditioners convert refrigerant from liquid to gas (thus cooling) and back to liquid in the condenser. To convert back to liquid the condenser must remove heat from the refrigerant into the air. How stupid could I be? Running the dash A/C in these conditions was adding heat to air pulled by the fan into the engine compartment. We quit using the dash A/C and had no further stalling episodes.

We found suitable parking at Lake Junction and walked to the information center. The information center had taxidermy displays of a variety of birds found in the park. I like to identify birds and enjoyed the displays.

Behind the center is Yellowstone Lake. The lake is large and we found sandy beaches here. A couple asked if I would take their picture with their camera. I did, then I realized I didn’t have a camera with me. I left everything back in the motorhome. Doh!

We dove through the park to Mammoth Junction. Driving through Yellowstone National Park in a large RV is not ideal. With our cargo trailer,our overall length is about 50 feet. We couldn’t stop in most of the pull outs. There were cars in them and not enough room for us to stop without having the trailer in the road. We cruised along and took in the scenery. There was a six-mile stretch where stopping was prohibited. There were fire crews working. We didn’t see the fire though.

The roads were narrow with no shoulder. If you’re planning to visit Yellowstone in a class A motorhome,I recommend staying in a RV park nearby and entering the park in a smaller vehicle.

We saw several bison. It was a novelty at first, but it became a nuisance. Anytime buffalo were near the road, cars would stop. People would hang out the window to take a picture or shoot video. Traffic jams formed as the scene was repeated. I can understand stopping your car when buffalo are in the road, but to come to a stop in the roadway because you want to take a picture of a buffalo nearby makes no sense to me. . Maybe I was just getting tired and cranky.

While we were stopped in traffic Donna snapped a couple of pictures through the windshield

Bisncrp

bisonrd

We exited the park and entered Montana at Gardiner. Outside Gardiner, we stopped and had a snack while we stretched our legs. From there highway 89 follows the Yellowstone River north to I-90. We drove to Bozeman and stopped at Walmart there.

I’d read tales of Walmart RV parking in parts of Montana. So many RVers pass through the area during vacation season, the Walmart parking lots fill with RVs. We found quite the assortment in Bozeman. To be continued…

(Click on photos to enlarge)

Walmart parking lot in Bozeman

Walmart parking lot in Bozeman

Upscale coaches in Bozeman Walmrt

Upscale coaches in Bozeman Walmrt

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Home built medium duty truck RV conversion

Home built medium duty truck RV conversions

You see all types at Walmart!

You see all types at Walmart!

 

 

 

Devils Tower

Yesterday we left the Heartland Campground in Hermosa, South Dakota. It was our last day in our newly adopted home state.

After coffee and breakfast, we had the slides in and the jacks up a little after 9am. There were a few things I wanted to do before we departed. First I wanted to photograph a couple of unique RVs in the campground.

The first one is a Vixen 21 TD. This was a futuristic RV produced from 1986 to 1989. Less than 600 were ever built. It featured aerodynamic body work and light weight. This unique RV claimed a top speed of 100 mph and also claimed to attain 30mpg. It was powered by a BMW M21 turbo diesel. The deal breaker for me is the inability to stand fully upright in it.

Vixen 21TD

Vixen 21TD

The other unique RV was built on a Mercedes chassis. This in itself isn’t unusual. What makes this one unique are the license plates. This vehicle was brought over from The Netherlands! I didn’t get a chance to talk to the owners, so I don’t know the story.

Note the license plate. Netherlands (on  the rear also)

Note the license plate – Netherlands (on the rear also)

Before we left I decided to fill our propane tank. When we left Michigan the gauge indicated 2/3 full. After a month on the road it still showed 2/3 full!! I was concerned about the accuracy of the gauge.

It only took six gallons to fill it. It’s an 80-pound tank so six gallons works out to about 1/3 of the capacity. I guess we don’t burn as much propane as I thought. At least I know I can trust the gauge.

In Rapid City I added $170 worth of gas to the tank and then we hit I-90 west. We drove through the Black Hills into Wyoming. We exited I-90 at Wyoming exit 199. There is a visitor information center at this exit. The center i s fairly large and clean with several covered picnic areas outside. They offer free road maps (we love good old-fashioned paper maps) and brochures on tourist attractions. Volunteers there can give directions or advice on local restaurants and whatnot.

Donna at the info centerr

Donna at the info center

We followed WY111 north to WY24 west. This led us to Devils Tower National Monument. You can see the tower of stone jutting up into the sky from several points along the highway. Devils Tower was the first national monument in the USA. Wyoming also boasts the first national park – Yellowstone.

We entered the park and drove three miles to the parking area. The road goes through a prairie dog community;we saw several of the little critters poking their heads up out of their holes or running around.

Devils Towerr

Devils Tower

The RV parking is limited, but we found a space. It was very warm with temperatures in the 90s. At 1pm a National Park Service ranger gave a presentation. She spoke of the geology of the tower and the history of the area. She also spoke about the spiritual customs of the Native Americans.

We took a short hike up the hill to get a closer view of the formation. It was too hot to do much hiking. Donna wanted to walk the path that encircles the monument. I wasn’t up for that, so she settled for a short hike to get a closer look while I waited on a bench in the shade.

We drove south on WY14  which brought us to I-90 and into a little town called Moorcroft. We were hungry, so we stopped at a little diner. I found a parking spot on the street next to a park. We didn’t have high expectations, but were hungry and would settle for what they had to offer.

We were pleasantly surprised. Donna ordered a chef salad and I had a French dip sandwich. Her salad was made with a fresh assortment of lettuce and peppers and chunks of ham and turkey  (not deli slices). My French dip was made with roast beef that looked to be shredded from a home-cooked roast. It was tasty.

We got on the interstate and droned west. The route climbs gradually. The climbs weren’t bad but the headwind was relentless. I can only imagine how many (or should I say how few) miles per gallon we were achieving.

We amused ourselves by spotting antelope along the roadside. We arrived in Sheridan around 5pm and found a Walmart Superstore where we could park for the night. It was hot so I ran the generator to power the A/C units. Since I had electricity, I also turned on the TV and watched a pre-season football game. By bedtime there were 10 other RVs parked here.

Donna resupplied our provisions in Walmart and also got a pedicure. This morning we are debating whether we should take WY16 to Yellowstone for a drive through the national park or should we continue to drone up I-90. I think I know which route our readers would suggest.

Black Hills Tourists

Yesterday we closed out our first month on the road. Donna and I talked about how the time seems a bit warped. On one hand, it seems like the month flew by. On the other hand, when we think about all of the places we’ve been, the people we’ve visited and the things we’ve seen, it doesn’t seem possible that it all happened in only a month’s time.

I am humbled by the fact that more than 4,000 hits were recorded on this blog at the end of our first month. I hope our readers will continue to follow our travels and find our adventures interesting.

Yesterday I rode the scooter to Rapid City. I went to the Black Hills Credit Union to deposit checks. This has been an ongoing quest since we picked up our mail in Madison. The Black Hills Credit Union is affiliated with my credit union in Michigan. I made the 19-mile ride feeling confident that this task would finally be completed.

Along with my checks I brought my Genisys Credit Union debit card, the bank routing number and my checking account number. To my dismay, the teller asked for my credit union member identification number. She couldn’t help me without that number! After a couple of failed attempts I was able to contact Donna and get my member identification number. Attempting to deposit these checks has really tested my patience. The people here in South Dakota are so friendly and genuinely apologetic when they can’t help and that makes it easy for me to keep cool.

When I returned from the credit union, Donna was working on her newsletter. She was having trouble with the formatting for viewing via smart phone. I don’t know how that works, but apparently there are certain things that have to be specially formatted to be viewed properly on a smart phone.

After eight or nine test versions were sent to my phone, she was still finding errors. I was getting impatient. It was after 11am, I was hungry and wanted to head toward Mt. Rushmore and get something to eat along the way. Donna decided to take a break and finish the formatting after we returned from our sightseeing trip.

During Donna’s early morning walk, she talked to the owner of the Heartland RV park (where we are staying). He gave her tips on which route to take to Mt. Rushmore and other sights to see. He told her I should stop by the office and he would give me a map.

While Donna was working I walked to the campground office around 10:30am. It was closed with a sign on the door saying they would return at 11:00am. There was a UPS driver at the door making a delivery. I talked to him and he suggested taking route 40 to Keystone, then go up the hill to Mt. Rushmore. He described Keystone as a “tourist town.”

I went back to office at 11:00am and found a note saying they would be back at 11:30! I gave up on getting a map of the local attractions and decided to follow the UPS driver’s advice. We rolled out of here a little after 11:00am. Route 40 was a scenic ride on a smooth winding road that gained elevation over the 20-mile ride to Keystone.

When we entered Keystone, I saw a sign that said the population was 397. As we rode through the town at 30mph, it didn’t look like a “tourist town” at all. It looked rather shabby and run down. With a population of 397, I didn’t think it would extend more than a few blocks. I was really hungry at this point and stopped at the first place that offered food.

We went into an establishment that was a combination antique/junk dealer, bar and restaurant. I use the term restaurant very loosely. The man behind the counter said he had pulled pork but it was cold (apparently he had only just turned on the crockpots) or he could serve us pizza. This wasn’t a good start to our day trip. Donna asked if there were any other places to eat nearby. To my surprise he said we just needed to go up the road to the “new Keystone.” Apparently we were in “old Keystone.”

A half mile up the road we found the “tourist town” the UPS driver described. The new Keystone is a couple of blocks of buildings with old west facades. It has numerous restaurants and shops including the usual souvenir shops and of course, Black Hills gold jewelry.

We had lunch at the Red Garter Saloon and were entertained by the staff and cowboy re-enactments in the street. We walked up and down the street to take it all in before we rode up to see Mt. Rushmore. My take on it is this; the “old Keystone” is where the population of 397 lives. The “new Keystone” is where they work. Without the new Keystone there wouldn’t be much reason to live in old Keystone.

When we entered the Mt. Rushmore parking lot we stopped at a toll booth and were charged $11 to park. I guess they justify the $11 fee by telling us it’s good for a whole year. I forgot about my National Parks Pass; actually I didn’t realize it would cover parking fees.

I remembered visiting Mt. Rushmore when I was kid in 1967. Things change over 46 years. My recollection is of an open parking lot and short walk to the viewing pavilion. There were telescopes that cost a dime for three minutes of viewing.

Today there’s a parking deck. The walk to the pavilion is longer and there are more buildings. They have the flags of the fifty states of the union displayed. You can rent headphones for an audio tour. There’s a trail you can hike called the Presidential Trail. The 10 cent telescopes cost 50 cents now.

State flags on the pavilion

State flags on the pavilion

My recollection might be flawed after all this time, but it seems to me that the sculptures have deteriorated. I remember being struck by the way Teddy Roosevelt was depicted with wire rim glasses. Now the wire rims are barely there. That’s not to say it isn’t still an an awesome sight. It’s incredible. It’s also an American icon with international appeal. We heard a few different languages spoken among the crowd there.

By the 25 cent telescopes

Here again after 46 years

From there we made the 11-mile ride to the Crazy Horse monument. This is another impressive sight. It’s a work in progress and won’t be finished in my lifetime. We backtracked to the Hwy 16 junction and followed it to Custer State Park and the Needles Highway.

At this point we were over 6,000 feet above sea level. The RV park we’re staying at is about 3,500 feet above sea level. The route we followed into Custer State Park was a winding road with tight switchbacks. The first switchbacks had speed advisories of 15mph. Then we saw 10mph as the switchbacks tightened. Eventually there was a switchback marked 5mph! This road was steep and tight. I wouldn’t want to take an RV up it.

We stopped at Sylvan Lake. I can’t describe the beauty of this lake. It was so peaceful and an awe inspiring sight. From there we rode the Needles Highway. This road has a few tunnels that are one lane, only 8 feet wide and about 12 feet high. At  one tunnel we saw a tour bus inching its way through! The driver had to fold the mirrors in for clearance. I don’t know how he made it.

Sylvan Lake

Sylvan Lake

We saw a mountain goat with two kids along the roadside. I also saw a bull bison five feet off the road (somehow Donna missed seeing him). We stopped at scenic overlooks with vistas beyond description. We took a break for ice cream at a shop along the way. Donna was gushing over the sights she had seen. She’s loving our new home state. I wish I could find the words to describe this magical place. I’ll just have to say, you must visit the Black Hills and Custer State Park.

Mountain goats

Mountain goats

Today will be a maintenance day rather than a tourist day. I’ll ride to Rapid City for groceries and do laundry here at the park. I also need to lube the rams on the hydraulic jacks and slide outs on our motorhome. Maybe I’ll find an interesting book to read at the campground office.

Tomorrow, we’ll pack up and head to Wyoming.

 

Across the Wide Missouri

Tuesday morning we made the 34 mile ride to Madison on our scooter. I’m really impressed with the performance of our Kymco Downtown 300i scooter. We’ve ridden just about 200 miles in the last week “two up” at 60 – 65 mph and it just purrs along at 6,000 rpm.

It hasn’t missed a beat, It doesn’t burn any oil and we’re getting better than 60 mpg. We have storage space under the seat and it also has a folding hook to hang a grocery bag between the rider’s knees. This makes shopping a breeze. I can even situate a case of beer between my knees and ride comfortably!

In Madison we obtained our driver’s licenses (Donna was happy with her photo on her license) and also met with the insurance agent. Elizabeth at Kundert-Williams Insurance had sent me a quote for the RV, trailer and scooter. We went with her package which is a Progressive Insurance full-time RV policy that also covers the trailer. The full-time RV policy is an important point. When you live in your RV, you shouldn’t insure it like it’s a car. The coverage we chose is more like a hybrid auto/homeowner policy. We also chose Progressive for the scooter.

Yesterday we packed up and drove the motorhome to Mitchell. We enjoyed the scenery and quiet time at the Camp America RV park in Salem. But there was a trade off.

We had to deal with flies which kept us from dining outside. Also the water pressure was erratic, ranging from zero (no water!) to more than 60 psi. Their wifi was also erratic. When the campground filled up with visitors, the wifi was either very slow or wouldn’t connect at all. Overall, next time through here I think we’ll choose another spot.

Sunset at Camp America RV Park

Sunset at Camp America RV Park

We parked in a large lot next to the Ford dealership in Mitchell and walked a couple of blocks to the attorney’s office. We signed our wills and health care directives. This was our final order of business establishing us as South Dakotans.

We hit I-90 westbound and were uncertain of how far we would go. It was already after 10am. We made a stop at a super rest area just east of the Missouri River. I call it super, because it’s more than what you would expect to find at an interstate rest stop. They had an RV dump station and a visitor information center that was practically a Lewis and Clark museum. In the back was a scenic overlook of the Missouri River. Impressive, right? That’s how they roll in our new home state of South Dakota.

Donna at the Missouri River scenic overlook

Donna at the Missouri River scenic overlook

Across the Wide Missouri is the title of a book written by historian Bernard DeVoto. It’s about the mountain man era (1820 – 1840) and the Rocky Mountain fur trade. I read it about 20 years ago and remembered it as we looked at the river. When we crossed the wide Missouri, I truly felt that we were entering the western US. The terrain immediately changed from flat prairie farmland to rolling hills. I love this part of our country. The open space, the expansive vistas and the wildlife are a treat and I was smiling as we drove along.

The wide Missouri

The wide Missouri

Donna worked in her co-pilot’s seat on her laptop. She was writing her monthly newsletter while I drove. She looked out and spotted deer in a field at one point. We snacked instead of stopping for lunch and drove straight on through to Wall, South Dakota.

On I-90 for about 300 miles in each direction from Wall, South Dakota, you’ll see signs luring you to stop at Wall Drug.  According to Wikipedia, Wall Drug spends $400,000 per year on billboards. Wall Drug is a store that occupies a city block in the town of Wall, South Dakota. It’s sometimes described as a mall, but it’s all one store consisting of gift shops, outdoor supplies, cafes and yes, a drug store.

Wall Drug

Wall Drug

They offer 5 cent coffee and free ice water. This store with it’s marketing gimmicks draws two million visitors annually to a town with a population of less than 800 people. We had to stop. There are several parking areas designated for Wall Drug, we found an RV-friendly spot. We had lunch in the cafe and wandered around.

Donna's new friend at Wall Drug

Donna’s new friend at Wall Drug

It was raining lightly while we were in Wall. We got back on the road and I decided to push on to Hermosa where we had a reservation at Heartland RV park beginning Thursday. Donna phoned them and found we could come in a day early.  As we drove west, we left the rain behind and had blue skies. We’ll stay here three nights. We want to see Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Monument while we’re here. That’s our plan for today.

Before we go traipsing off on a tourism quest, I have another task to accomplish. About 19 miles from here is a branch of the Black Hills Credit Union. They are affiliated with Genisys Credit Union which means I can finally deposit the proceeds from the sale of my BMW motorcycle. That is my first order of business after breakfast this morning.

last night's dinner -

Last night’s dinner – Carmelized Tilapia with green olives and lemon

Corn Palace

Yesterday was a busy day. In the morning, while I was writing my post, Donna alternated walking and running laps around the campground. When I get the urge to exercise, I usually lie down until the urge goes away. Despite this, because I’m more active throughout the day than before I retired, I’m continuing to lose weight and will need to buy new jeans with a smaller waist size.

After breakfast and showers, we left the campground at 9:15 am and rode the scooter to Mitchell. We rode north a few miles into Salem then headed west on highway 38 for 32 miles. The scenery was a recurring theme. Corn fields, then soy bean fields, then fallow land or grazing cattle punctuated by the occasional wooded plot. Repeat. The road was straight as an arrow for the most part. For me it was a boring ride, but Donna said she enjoyed the scenery.

Mitchell is bigger than Madison with a population of more than 15,000. My first order of business was to find a bank to deposit checks. We tried several banks and none of them had an ATM that would accept a deposit into my Chase account or my credit union. This is frustrating. I’m still holding the check for the sale of my BMW motorcycle.

After running through a few banks, we found the attorney’s office on Kimball Street. We walked in precisely at 10:30, our appointed time. The receptionist greeted us and knew who we were. She remembered talking to Donna about our new lifestyle and asked if we found parking for the RV. The estate planning with the attorney turned out to be a little more complicated than I anticipated. My affairs are simple, as most of my assets already have designated beneficiaries. Donna, on the other hand has passive income, such as royalties that will survive her. This requires the attorney to study her contracts before writing her will.

While we were in Mitchell, we decided to visit the Corn Palace. This is Mitchell’s main tourist attraction. I have to say it’s unique. The Corn Palace is basically a community center with an auditorium, basketball court and performing arts stage. They hold various events there. What makes it unique are the murals inside the building and decorating the exterior. These murals are made from corn. They are created with different colored ears of corn and stalks. The murals are stripped from the building and replaced with new ones every year. Admission is free unless a special event is being held.

Southwest corner of the Corn Palace

Southwest corner of the Corn Palace

We saw tour buses at the Corn Palace from Tennessee and Pennsylvania. Apparently it’s a popular stop on the tour bus routes.

Corn mural on the exterior wall

Corn murals on the exterior wall

One of many murals inside the palace made from corn

One of many murals inside the palace made from corn

We had lunch in Mitchell at Pizza Hut. Donna had the salad bar while I had pizza. It’s sad to say this was the best pizza I’ve had in a while, but it’s the truth. The place in Madison or the pub pizza in Salem was that bad.

Back at the campground Donna, e-mailed her contracts to the attorney (she had scanned them all before leaving Michigan). Then she spent the next hour doing a recorded interview for “HOW” magazine on organizing and productivity. I sat outside and watched the changing of the guard while she was on the phone.

When I say changing of the guard, I’m referring to the turnover at the campground. When we returned from Mitchell, the park was nearly empty. All afternoon I watched RVs pull in to the park and set up. This park seems to be an overnight way point for many RVers. We’ve been stationary here for six days now – a new record for us.

Today we have a change of plans. No big surprise as our plans often have a way of changing. Instead of returning to Mitchell to complete our legal matters, we’ll go back to Madison. We found out that the licensing department is open there on Tuesdays. We can obtain our new driver’s licenses and also meet with the insurance agent there. I reviewed her quote yesterday and will activate new policies.

Tomorrow we will break camp and drive west in the motorhome. We’ll make a stop in Mitchell to sign our documents at the law office, then head west toward Rapid City. This makes more sense than our original plan which had us backtracking to Madison.

I found good news online. In the Rapid City area there are several credit unions that are linked with Genisys. This means I can finally deposit my checks when we get there. I’m also hoping that when we go through the Badlands and into the Black Hills, my allergies will calm down. I’ve been miserable the past few days with itchy eyes and blocked sinuses.

Time for breakfast now and then we’re off to Madison.

Gigabyte Trouble

When we were living in our sticks-and-bricks house, I never thought too much about an internet connection. We had a Comcast bundle for internet, cable TV and telephone. Their internet service was good. I had very fast downloads and became used to downloading things like European coverage of Moto GP races.

When we decided to hit the road, I did a little research on how we could stay connected. Some campgrounds have wifi, but their connection speed varies. What we’re finding is that it’s pretty good early in the morning, but as more people connect, it bogs down.

We have a couple of ways to get online other than relying on campground or other public wifi. Our main way of accessing the internet is through a device called a Verizon Jetpack. The Jetpack is a wireless router and hotspot that shares a data plan with my Verizon Galaxy S4 phone. As long as we have Verizon coverage, we can get online.

Verizon Jetpack.

Verizon Jetpack.

The other option is to make Donna’s T-Mobile Galaxy S2 a mobile hotspot. She has an unlimited data plan with T-Mobile. Unfortunately, T-Mobile doesn’t have the greatest coverage. We’ve had Verizon 4G service everywhere, so we have yet to fall back on using her phone as a back up.

Here’s the rub. When you are using a shared data plan with your cell phone provider, there are limitations. You can only download a finite amount of data under the plan you’ve chosen.  Exceed the limit and you may be charged an exorbitant rate for the overage. I had no idea  how many gigabytes (GB) of data we’d download (or upload) in a month. I didn’t want to sign up for too much, but I didn’t want to go over either.

The good thing about Verizon is they let you alter your plan during the billing cycle. You can monitor your usage and if you think you’ll go over your limit, you can change the limit for that billing cycle. If you raise it one month you can lower it down the next month. The price goes up or down by $10 for every 2 GB.

I decided to start with a plan that has unlimited talk or text on my smartphone and 6 GB of shared data. My first billing cycle was only 24 days and we used a little over 5 GB. I thought we were doing pretty good.

This month, one week into the billing cycle, we were at 1.3 GB. Right on track. The next day it was 3.2 GB! What! I asked Donna if she downloaded video content. She didn’t, but she did move a big batch of files from Dropbox to her computer. She also downloaded an upgrade to her virus protection program that may have been large. We discussed this and decided we needed to be smarter about handling data.

Whenever we have free wifi access, we can do large data files. On our dime, we need to be more careful. This requires a change in mindset. After years of unlimited internet access, it’s hard to form new habits.

Yesterday, I wanted to download the Moto GP race. I get this through a torrent program and it simultaneously downloads and shares an upload. Typically a couple of GB of data moves in a short amount of time. I was connected to the campground wifi and started the download.

In the afternoon, the campground wifi here typically is slow as more and more people get online. With the download running in the background, I worked on another project online. My screen kept freezing and I became frustrated. I disconnected from the campground wifi and connected to the Jetpack so I could complete the project. I totally forgot about the download running in the background.

Once I’d finished uploading a few pictures to a page I was working on, I remembered the Moto GP download. I opened the torrent program and the download was complete! Doh! I checked my data usage – it went from 3.2 GB to over 5 GB in 20 minutes! I can’t let that happen again!

I went to my Verizon account and upped our plan to 8 GB, which may or may not be enough for the rest of the month. We’ll see. But we’ll be very careful from now on. There are races I want to download over the next two weekends. Lesson learned: If I’m downloading a race on free wifi, I’ll walk away from the laptop until the download is complete.

Organizing and Eating Well

Donna here. Long before we left our “sticks-and-bricks” home, I ponied up to the challenge of organizing our motorhome for full-time living. We have about 300 square feet of living space in our coach – about the size of large hotel room or small hotel suite.

My first priority as chief cook was to organize our food storage. We have a pull-out pantry which is great, except that the low sides of the pantry baskets only allowed room to store a single layer of cans, leaving a lot of wasted space. So I got the idea to place two plastic magazine racks in one of the baskets which tripled the canned storage space on that “shelf.” In the organizing profession, we call that “re-purposing.” I was planning to get rid of the magazine racks, but instead put them to good use.

Pull out pantry

Pull-out pantry

On the floor under the pantry, I have a small Clever Container folding cube where I store things like extra bottles of sparkling water. I also claimed the two cupboards over the kitchen table for food storage, plus a small storage area under the clock and the back half of a drawer under one of the kitchen bench seats where I store sugar, flour and other baking supplies (because I rarely use those items). I store spices on a two-tiered carousel in our one large kitchen cabinet that has two doors for access.

Overhead cabinet

Overhead cabinet

Cabinet below clock

Cabinet below clock

Kitchen cabinet

Kitchen cabinet

Visitors are often surprised to see that we have a fairly good size refrigerator/freezer. Still, it’s smaller than the average home refrigerator/freezer and lacks the compartmentalized storage of a larger unit. On my next trip to Bed, Bath and Beyond, I may buy one or two Fridge Bins to help organize the shelves. I did buy a pack of reusable GreenBags. I’m glad I did because I love fresh veggies, fruit and herbs and our refrigerator has just two tiny crispers. I had a few peaches go bad (I prefer not to refrigerate them) and wish I had thought to put them in a GreenBag in the fruit basket (yes, you can use them for countertop storage also).

When we first hit the road, I had the freezer packed with meat. Now I’m using more of the freezer space for frozen fruits and vegetables. I prefer fresh, but frozen fruits and veggies are still highly nutritious and sometimes, our only option.

At this point in our journey, shopping for groceries is catch-as-catch-can. If I have an opportunity to shop, I do because I don’t know when I’ll have an opportunity again. If we overnight at a Walmart Supercenter, then I can wheel a cart of groceries back to the motorhome. But if we’re camped at an RV park, then we’re limited to what we can carry on our scooter. Where we are now in Salem, SD, the nearest decent grocery store is 30 miles away in Madison. I’m looking forward to being within easy walking, cycling or scooting distance of Trader Joe’s when we get to San Diego!

I love grocery shopping actually; it’s my preferred form of retail therapy. I do have to be more careful now though not to overbuy, because we have limited storage space. This morning, I planned our meals for the upcoming week which includes a couple of nights of dry camping where we probably won’t be able to run the generator. That means we can’t reheat leftovers in the microwave. And because we don’t level the coach or put the slides out, it’s a bit cramped for cooking. So one night, I’ll thaw some shrimp for shrimp cocktail and serve it with a salad plus leftover chilled cucumber soup that I made this morning for tonight’s dinner.  (If you want the recipe, leave a message below with your email address and I will be happy to send it to you. I scanned all of my favorite recipes.)

For meal planning purposes – and to reduce spoilage – I made a list of what’s in the freezer as well as a list of the fresh veggies, fruits, and herbs in the refrigerator and posted these lists on the inside of the pantry door. I also keep a running grocery list in a Post-It Pocket that I mounted to the inside of a kitchen cabinet door. So when I have a chance to shop, I know exactly what I need and can get in and out of the store pretty fast and we can be on our way.

In the process of moving, I decided to let go of things like my Pampered Chef mandoline (which I never got the hang of using), but was not leaving without my Keurig Platinum Brewing System, Vitamix, Cuisinart Food Processor, and crockpot – all of which I use frequently. I used the Vitamix today to make the chilled cucumber soup. Tomorrow, I’ll make hummus in my Cuisinart. And on Friday this week (after sightseeing at Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Monument) I plan to try out a new crockpot recipe for Balsamic Chicken.

For dinner tonight, we’re having Blackened Tilapia with Cumin and Cayenne and a generous helping of sauteed spinach. We’ll start with the cucumber soup and end with a fresh peach for dessert. I haven’t been exercising as much as I usually do and snacking more than I should, so I’ve been fasting on leek soup (from the French Women Don’t Get Fat cookbook) since yesterday morning and I’m really looking forward to dinner!

Kitchen counter and refrigerator

Stay tuned for more small-space organizing tips. I can’t wait to show you how I re-purposed a set of clear plastic shoe boxes!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Scooter Tour

Yesterday was a fairly lazy day. I wrote the blog while Donna practiced yoga. I’m suffering a bit from pollen allergies. I’m having a reaction to all pollens I was tested for – tree and grass pollens. I’m guessing the many thousands of acres of corn surrounding us are the reason.

Later in the morning, I rode the scooter over to Salem. Salem is a town of less the 1,500 people a few miles from here. I looked around Main street but it was pretty quiet. They have a park with a community pool. There appeared to be some kind of picnic event with more than 50 people at tables under a roof.

I decided to scooter over to the next town 10 miles to the east, Montrose. When I arrived there, I found it was smaller than Salem. I was hungry and looked for a place to eat. There was a restaurant but it only served dinner. The only place to get lunch was the Montrose Irish Pub. It seems like no matter where you go, you can find an Irish pub. When we were in France the the James Joyce Irish Pub was next to the Westin hotel where we stayed in Paris. They’re everywhere.

I thought it was a little early for an Irish pub, so I rode back to Salem. After searching the town for a diner, all I could find was fried chicken at the gas station/convenience store or pizza at the brew pub here. I decided it wasn’t too early for a pub after all. I could watch a little pre-season football as I washed down pizza with a pint of Guinness.

In the afternoon, Donna played piano. She has a digital keyboard that we set up in the bedroom. I set up an amp and played electric guitar for the first time since we left Lake George. I need to get back into practicing.

Later a new neighbor arrived. We chatted for a while. His name is Fred, He and his wife are from Yucaipa, California. They make an annual trip in their motorhome to visit family in Wisconsin. They’ve been doing this for the last ten years, Fred gave me a suggestion for our next campground in Hermosa, South Dakota.

Donna looked it up online and it looks like a nice place, It’s in a location that will allow us to make a day trip to Mt. Rushmore and Crazy Horse Monument. It’s also conveniently close to Custer State Park while being far enough away to avoid the crowds. We’ll try to book a couple of days there.

I don’t have much excitement to post about. Maybe Donna will add a post today.

Site 33 - Campground America

Site 33 – Campground America

Why South Dakota?

In the USA, every state is a sovereign in our federal system. Each state has its own laws regarding things like taxation, marriage, inheritance and so on. A domicile is the status of permanent residence in a particular jurisdiction. This doesn’t mean you have to be physically present in that jurisdiction at all times, but you must have sufficient links to that jurisdiction to prove intent to remain or return there.

There are a number of ways to establish a residence, the most common being to live in a particular jurisdiction. Since we are living a nomadic way of life for the foreseeable future, we don’t want to buy or rent a home at this time. We’re establishing our state of domicile in South Dakota by 1) having a mailing address here 2) obtaining driver’s licenses 3) registering to vote 4) registering our vehicles 5) having an attorney draw up our will 6) obtaining vehicle insurance and declaring South Dakota as our state of residence on our health insurance.

It’s important to take these steps and not leave connections in other states. The main reason for this is taxation. I wouldn’t want my last state of residence, Michigan, to collect income tax from me.

That leads to the question, why South Dakota? It works for us for the following reasons:

No State Income Tax. There are other states without state income tax such as Florida, Texas and Washington. This quickly narrowed the field of which states we wanted to domicile in.

Mail Service. South Dakota has a few businesses that are set up specifically to cater to our nomadic needs. These businesses not only collect and forward mail; they also assist with licensing, vehicle and voter registration.

Driver’s License Requirements. A South Dakota’s drivers license is fairly easy to obtain and doesn’t have restrictions or special requirements for large RVs.

Jury Duty. South Dakota may send us a notice for jury duty but they will excuse a full-time traveler.

Vehicle Insurance. South Dakota is one of least expensive places to insure a vehicle. When the 50 states are ranked by insurance cost – most expensive to least expensive – South Dakota is number 47.

* I have to add a correction here. The above statistic does not reference vehicle insurance, it’s overall insurance costs. In the vehicle category South Dakota is ranked 16th.

Residence. South Dakota requires proof of being physically present in the state for only 24 hours before you can obtain your driver’s license. Pretty easy, right?

So, yesterday we rode the scooter over to Madison. Madison is a town northwest of Sioux Falls and is home to about 6,500 permanent residents. It’s also home to a business called “My Dakota Address.” We went there first and met with the proprietor, Terri Lund. Terri gave us a pile of mail that she had already received for us and prepared our driver license and registration documents.

We weren’t able to obtain our driver’s licenses since it was Friday and they only do driver’s licensing on Thursday in Madison. We’ll complete that task on Tuesday in Mitchell. We’ll need to bring a receipt from the RV park with  both our names on it. This will provide proof of our physical presence in the state.

Our new hometoen

Our new hometown

Yesterday was unseasonably cool. The scooter ride seemed like it would never end. From the campground, we bombed north on 81 at 60 mph for about 21 miles. The roads around here are mostly straight and fairly flat. Speed limits on secondary roads are mostly 65mph. It’s all farm land. When 81 ended, we headed east at 60mph for another 13 miles before we entered town.

Donna was chilled from the ride while we met with Terri and then walked over to the courthouse on the next block. I was hoping the walk would warm her up. We paid for our vehicle registrations and were given plates for the trailer and scooter. Our RV plate will take a couple of weeks since we opted for a personalized plate. Neither Donna nor I have ever had a personalized plate before, but we went for it. We’re doing a lot things we never did before.

We strolled around, looking at our new “hometown.” We stopped at an insurance agency that Terri recommended and gave them information so they could prepare a quote. Later I applied online for a quote from an agency in Sioux Falls that specializes in RV insurance. I want to have that wrapped up before we leave. Most insurance companies have a grace period of 30 days. Since we won’t be legal residents of Michigan, our vehicle insurance policies won’t be valid for long.

The people we talked to in town were very pleasant. It’s a nice place to call home. We had lunch at a pizza place called Skippy’s. I can’t give it more than a 2.5 on a scale of 5. The service was good but the pizza was bland. After lunch we walked a around. We boarded the scooter and looked for RV friendly parking – we’ll stop back in town with our rig to pick up mail again when we leave the campground.

We stopped at the Sunshine Grocery before leaving town. Donna wanted to pick up a few things for a special “balancing” diet she’ll be on for the weekend. I’ll have leftover pizza and balance it with beer!

One of the items in our pile of mail was a check from USAA for the sale of my BMW motorcycle. We bank with Chase and Genisys Credit Union and neither have a branch in the area. I want to deposit this check into the Genisys account and park the money there in case of emergency. I’m thinking about “what if” scenarios. Like, what if I lost my Chase credit card and debit card? How would I pay for things until they were replaced? I keep my Genisys debit card separate from my other cards. That way I always have an an account I can access if I need to.

After we returned to campground, I rode back a few miles to the town of Salem. I stopped in at a credit union to see if I could deposit the check through their ATM. They didn’t have one, but they directed me to the Dakota First Bank a few blocks away. When I inquired about making the deposit there, they said an ATM would be the way to do it, but not their ATM. It doesn’t accept deposits. I’ll try on Monday at a bank in Mitchell.

We’ll hang around the campground this weekend. Monday we have an appointment with an attorney in Mitchell to set up our estate plan. Tuesday we’ll return to wrap that up and get our driver’s licenses. Wednesday we’ll be back on the road.

 

Hippies?

It’s 6:30am Friday morning. We’re in the land of my paternal ancestors – southeast South Dakota.

Wednesday, I was still a bachelor as Donna was in New York City shooting a national TV satellite media tour. I didn’t do much. I took a couple of walks around the area and explored a little on the scooter. For lunch I walked to the casino in search of a cheap meal.

I wouldn’t call the menu there cheap. Reasonable? Maybe. I had two tacos with Spanish rice for  $9. It wasn’t bad – I’d rate it a 3 on a scale 5. I’m looking forward to Roberto’s for tacos when we reach San Diego.

I read more of “Covert” by Bob Delaney and snoozed in the outdoor recliner. I decided to get a head start on packing as we would pull out of Dakotah Meadows RV Park in the morning. Before I knew it, I had almost everything loaded in the trailer and the awning secured. After taking a shower, I thought about dinner. Doh! I’d loaded the scooter in trailer and had things packed behind it.

The grill was put away and I didn’t have anything laid out for dinner anyway. So, I walked to the casino for another mediocre meal. This time it was a mushroom burger and fries. Doesn’t measure up to the meals I’m accustomed to – life with Donna means I usually eat well!

Around 9pm a text message appeared on my phone – “Outside now behind the coach.” I walked out and found Donna sitting in a Lincoln Town Car behind our site. I was happy to have her back!

Yesterday we were up around 7:30am. After coffee and yogurt I disconnected the hook-ups while Donna packed the interior. We pulled out of our site at 9am drove over to the RV wash. I pressure washed the coach and trailer, then topped up the tank. 29 gallons of unleaded at $3.37 – the cheapest we’ve had so far. It’s the first time I’d left the pump without spending over $100.

Our route took us southwest through Mankato. We hit I-90 at Worthington where we stopped at Walmart to to stock up on groceries. I don’t know what was going on there. We saw several young people in parking lot and store. They looked like “hippies” from the 60’s. Unwashed, strange clothing and hair. I must be getting old – I was one of them decades ago.

As we headed west on I-90 it got dark with heavy cloud cover. We drove through some light rain, nothing much, but enough to undo the hour I spent washing the coach and trailer. It’s what they always say – wash your car and it’s sure to rain, right?

I wanted to stop at the Welcome Center when we entered South Dakota. I’d heard good things about it – like free detailed road maps of the state and plenty of tourism brochures. Immediately after we crossed the state line there was a truck scale and rest stop. I blew by it, then realized that was the Welcome Center. Oh well.

Our site at Camp America

Our site at Camp America

We arrived at the Camp America Campground in Salem, South Dakota around 4:00pm. I booked a week here a couple of days ago. We have a large pullthrough site in the back corner. Nice! The view out our windshield is farmland with woods in the distance. Full hook-ups with 50 amp service. The weekly rate if you pay cash is $175 – that’s $25/day. Not too shabby. We’ll appreciate the 50 amp service in a couple of days. The weather forecast calls for temperatures to rise into the 90’s. With 50 amp service we can run both A/C units at the same time.

I’m getting our set-up routine down. I had the rig hooked up, leveled and slides out in no time. It was still cloudy and cool – in the upper 60’s which is very unusual at this time of year here. Today will remain cool before the temperatures rise over the weekend.

At dusk swallows (maybe they were martins) swooped through our campsite. Once again we had insectivores targeting flying bugs. Whether they’re birds or bats, I like it!

The business side of the rig - utilities hook up

The business side of the rig – utilities hook ups

Today we’ll scooter over to Madison to get our driver’s licenses and register our vehicles. We also need to change our insurance as we’ll no longer be Michigan residents. I’ll explain our reasoning for this in my next post.