Cape Blanco

Yesterday we hiked around the Cape Blanco State Park. The park is located about seven miles north of Port Orford, Oregon. The park is quiet and secluded and the paved sites are laid out in such a way that allow for privacy.

A short walk behind our site into the forest is the Oregon Coast Trail. This trail runs from the Columbia River all the way to the California border. We hiked south down the trail and followed it to the beach access. The park is on a bluff over 200 feet above sea level. The hike down a paved road to beach wasn’t excessively steep. The pitch steepened somewhat over the last 50 yards though.

Beach south of the lighthouse

Beach south of the lighthouse

The sandy beach is long and littered with driftwood near the cliffs. It was windy and a bit chilly.

Donna checking out the driftwood

Donna checking out the driftwood

Donna claiming the secluded south beach as her own.

Donna claiming the secluded south beach as her own

After we hiked back and ate lunch, we followed the trail to the north. Our destination was the Cape Blanco Lighthouse. The trail comes out of the forest onto a brushy bluff. While we walked along the trail cut through the dense bushes, I saw a red fox. He appeared to be hunting mice. Foxes have keen hearing and can pinpoint the location of a mouse by the sound of it rustling through the grass. They will jump high and come down on  the mouse, pinning it with  their front paws. This is what I saw the fox do. He disappeared in the brush but emerged a few seconds later. He climbed up on a rock and looked back at us. Then he disappeared again.

CpBlghsesgn

We continued our hike and made our way to the lighthouse. You can take a guided tour, which includes climbing the 64 steps up the tower to the light for two dollars per person. We took the tour. The spiral steps are steep. The last section of steps is like climbing a ladder. The lighthouse was completed in 1870. Three years earlier, the decision was made to build it due to the hazardous reefs and rocky islands that are in the area.

View south from the lighthouse entrance.

View south from the lighthouse entrance

The bricks the tower was built from were made onsite. It was cheaper to hire a brickmaker and source materials locally than it was to have them shipped from San Francisco. Twenty thousand bricks were needed.

Cape Blanco Lighthouse

Cape Blanco Lighthouse

The focal height of the light is 257 feet above sea level. It can be seen more than 20 miles out to sea. The current fresnel lens was installed in 1936, replacing the original. I tried to take photos of the lens, but without a wide-angle camera lens, I  couldn’t capture all of it.

1,000 watt bulb inside the fresnel lens

1,000-watt bulb inside the fresnel lens

CpBfrsnl

The weather here changes constantly. Yesterday we had fog and light mist in the morning. The day was overcast most of the time, but the sun would break through for short periods. When we were out on the point near the lighthouse, we could see blue sky to the north and east while we had low, dense clouds directly above.

View to the north from the lighthouse entrance.

View to the north from the lighthouse entrance

When we hiked through the forest, we were quite warm. As soon as we stepped out onto the open bluff or beach, the wind chilled us quickly. This place is hard to describe or imagine. You simply must come here.

Today, I think we’ll pull out at lunch time and head down to the giant redwoods across the California border.

 

Scenic Byway

Fast, reliable internet connections are not a given when you’re on the road. I posted about this before.

Our stay in Chinook Bend really brought this home. Although our Verizon Jetpack showed 2 bars of 3G most of the time, the capacity was limited. At times of high usage (when many people were trying to load data through that cell) our connection speed was worse than an old dial-up.

Monday morning I rode the scooter into Lincoln City in search of free, fast, reliable wifi. I ended up at McDonalds on the north side of town and uploaded my blog post there.

Later I returned to town with Donna. She shopped for groceries while I walked across the street to the Ace Hardware store. It was a good, old fashioned hardware store. I could’ve spent hours there just looking at all of the stuff. I bought three wood screws for a whopping 21 cents. I needed two but bought a spare, just in case. I used them to repair the runner on my clothes drawer in our bedroom.

Chinook Bend RV Resort

Chinook Bend RV Resort

We took a walk along the river. A fishing boat came in to the dock. They had six pretty good sized king salmon.

Six Kings on the dock

Six Kings on the dock

Fishing from the Chinook Bend dock

Fishing from the Chinook Bend dock

Salmon names can be confusing. Stores (and some people) call these fish chinook salmon. When we fished for them in Alaska, they were always called king salmon and I still use that term. Coho salmon also have more than one name. In  the northwest and Alaska, coho salmon are often called silvers.

In preparation for Tuesday’s travel, I cleaned the windshield. Then I cleaned our new tires and treated the sidewalls with Aerospace 303 to protect them against UV. I loaded the trailer. I greased the ball on the trailer hitch. I was killing time in anticipation of the Chargers Monday Night Football game.

I watched the game in proper attire. I had a Chargers T-shirt under my number 14 Dan Fouts Chargers throwback jersey. It didn’t help. They got off to a fast start with an interception followed by a quick touchdown. However, in the second half, Houston overcame a 21-point deficit and kicked the game-winning field goal.

Yesterday we drove down the coast of Oregon. We stopped in Newport at the Walmart and picked up a few things. We also walked to the Chase Bank so Donna could deposit checks she received in the mail over the weekend.

The drive was one of the most scenic of our trip. It’s hard to rank the views; we’ve seen such beautiful country since we crossed the Missouri River. We laugh at Nally, our Rand-McNally RVND7720 GPS. She pronounces scenic as “sen-nick” when she tells us we’re on the Scenic Byway.

Nally rarely steers us wrong, but on this day, we had an issue. We were headed for the Cape Blanco State Park near the Cape Blanco Lighthouse. I wanted to meet up with two full-time RV couples that are working at the lighthouse – Chris and Cherie of Technomadia and Paul and Nina with Wheeling It. I’ve been following their blogs for a while and felt like I already knew them.

Back to the issue with Nally. She directed me to make a left turn onto a gravel road as we drove up toward the lighthouse. There was a sign for the Cape Blanco Horse Camp. I was uneasy as we drove down the gravel road. What if it’s a dead end? I had no way to turn around. After half a mile or so, there was a road leading to a small camp on the right. I stopped. Donna walked over to camp to see if we were on the right road. We were told to use the road looping around their camp to turn around. It was very tight between some trees and fence posts, but we got turned around and back out to the main road. We found the correct turn a quarter of a mile up the road.

The Cape Blanco State Park is a beautiful place. The sites are carved out of the forest with good separation. You can’t see your neighbor through the trees. It’s first come, first served. We arrived around 3pm and found most of the sites were taken. All of the sites are back-in.

We drove around the campground and saw a group of people near a wood shed. They turned out to be the camp hosts and gave Donna a map of the campground. This map detailed the sites, including dimensions. It took a couple of laps, but we finally found a site we could back into that was more than 50 feet long. Once again, I did not have to drop the trailer.

Before we set up, we walked down to the Lighthouse Hosts sites and met Chris, Cherie and Nina. Later, they joined us with Paul at our site for hors d’oeuvres and wine. We sat at the picnic table and talked for a couple of hours. It was really nice to meet the people whose lives I’ve been reading about for the past year.

LHCC

Today we’ll hike to the beach. Later we’ll hike up to the lighthouse for the grand tour. Chris, Cherie, Paul and Nina will be the tour guides this afternoon and have promised us the VIP tour. Donna also wants to get some bicycling in. We may have to extend our stay here.

LHPN

Looking for Glass

Accessing WordPress to update the blog has been a challenge this weekend. Our Verizon Jetpack  has a couple of bars of 3G at times. Other times there’s no connection.

Saturday’s weather was a big improvement. It was a little warmer and didn’t rain. We had periods of cloud cover, but it was a mostly sunny day.

We rode to town and shopped at the outlet mall again. We returned the Levi’s I bought the day before. We had lunch at the deli there. Excellent fare but I recommend sharing a plate. The portions are huge! Donna ordered a breakfast burrito made with two scrambled eggs, chorizo and potatoes. The plate actually comes with two burritos made with full-size flour tortillas. I had a french dip on a toasted hoagie. It was excellent. The au jus was almost like gravy.

After we ate, we went to the beach. We were on a quest to find glass art. There are glass blowers in Lincoln City. Many of the artists blow glass balls in the style of Japanese fishing floats. They participate in a community sponsored treasure hunt called Finders Keepers. Numbered glass floats and smaller objects are placed along a seven-mile stretch of sandy beach. If you find one, you can go to the community center and get a certificate of authencity and more information about the artist. They do this on designated days each month. Over the course of the year, approximately 3,000 glass balls are placed on the beach.

Driftwood on the beach at Lincoln City

Driftwood on the beach at Lincoln City

We didn’t hit the beach until the afternoon. We walked about a mile up  the beach and searched the driftwood, sand and grass but didn’t find any. I guess you have to be there early.

Donna searching for glass art

Donna searching for glass art

We stopped for provisions at the IGA store in town. Donna bought fresh halibut for dinner, some Oregon shrimp and veggies. We had two bags of groceries. I put one under the seat of the scooter. The other bag was hung on the hook between my legs in front of the seat.

Siletz Bay

Siletz Bay

I dropped Donna off at home and made a beer run back to town. When I returned, I saw Donna walking back to our coach. She’d walked up to the office (The Barn) which is nearly half a mile from our site. They had mail for us. The mail was forwarded here from our mail service in South Dakota. How exciting – our first mail delivery since we left South Dakota!

I figured out how the unions on the PEX tubing under the kitchen sink were coming loose. The faucet over the sinks swivels from side to side to allow it to fill either sink. The faucet mount had loosened. When the faucet was moved from one side to the other, it was moving the mount and flexing the tubing underneath.

Discovering the root cause of the problem was one thing. Correcting it was harder than I imagined. It required a deep 5/8″ socket, universal joint, two six-inch extensions, a ratchet and me on my back with my head and arms in a small cabinet. After many attempts to get the socket between the sinks and behind the tubing to the mounting nut, I finally succeeded. Job done!

For dinner, Donna cooked Pan-Seared Halibut Salmoriglio (an Italian garlicky lemon sauce), while I grilled veggies. It was delicious.

Pan Seared Halibut Salmoriglio with grilled veggies

Pan Seared Halibut Salmoriglio with grilled veggies

Sunday was very laid back. It was the first Sunday of the 2013 NFL season. Although it was a beautiful day outside, I was mostly a couch potato. I watched three complete football games.

For lunch Donna made a shrimp salad with the fresh Oregon shrimp and rolled it into tortilla wraps. Tasty!

Donna reorganized some cupboards and practiced piano (with headphones) while I was watching football. Then she went out for a walk and spotted a seal in the river. They swim upstream to feed on salmon in the river. I guess it’s easier for them to catch the salmon in the confines of the river than it is in the open ocean.

I grilled chicken kabobs for dinner during half-time of the last game.

Today I’ll work on a few maintenance items and pack the trailer in preparation for tomorrow’s travel day. Tonight I’ll be wearing my number 14 Dan Fouts Chargers throwback jersey while I watch the San Diego Chargers and the Houston Texans go at it.

Riding in the Rain

Yesterday was a typical September day in the Pacific Northwest. The cloud cover provided a low ceiling and rain drizzled down off and on. The air was so full of moisture, it made cell service and internet connectivity nearly impossible at times. I finally managed to get yesterday’s post uploaded.

Donna became frustrated with the connectivity issues. She stopped working around 10:30am and went for a walk. She has a couple of projects she’s trying to complete and needs to be online for them. When she returned, an hour later, the internet connection was a little more stable.

Low ceiling. This was as good as it got all day

Low ceiling – this was as good as it got all day.

I unloaded the scooter from the trailer and set up Donna’s digital keyboard in the bedroom. Several rigs pulled into the park and set up for the weekend. This is a popular fishing destination. Chinook Bend is aptly named. King (Chinook) salmon are running up the river. The river bends upstream from our site and there are many fishing boats working the river there.

Around 3pm, Donna was done working for the day. It wasn’t raining, but it was dark and damp out. We decided to ride into Lincoln City to the Tanger Outlet Mall. It’s the largest outlet mall in Oregon. I needed new jeans. I’ve lost weight and my pants barely hang on me. On the ride to town, it started raining again.

We went to the Levi store at Tanger. I have to vent a little. Why do old-fashioned Levi 501 jeans cost so much? Back in the day, these were working man’s clothes. The plain, old-fashioned 501 jeans were “discount” priced at $60! Most of the other Levi’s have a strange cut. They call them “below the waist cut.” I found a pair I could live with for $30.

When we left the mall, the rain was falling harder. Visibility was poor as I rode down Highway 101. Back at Chinook Bend, the rainfall was a light drizzle. I wanted to change clothes. My over-sized jeans were wet. While I was changing, Donna went through my closet. She found three pair of jeans I’d packed away. They were 34″ waistband size, just like the jeans I’d bought at the outlet store. I’d forgotten about these pants. Doh!

I set up our awning and we moved the picnic table under the awning. For dinner I grilled a small piece of pork tenderloin with sweet potatoes and onions.

Hot off the grill

Hot off the grill

Pork loin with apple sauce, sweet potato and onion

Pork loin with applesauce, sweet potato and onion

The weekend forecast calls for sunshine and warmer weather. It appears as though the weather guessers may have it right this morning. Today we’ll go to the beach at Lincoln City and search for glass fishing floats. We’ll also return the Levi’s I bought yesterday.

The view of the hill across the river looks more promising today

The view of the hill across the river looks more promising today.

 

New Shoes for the RV

It was raining when we woke up yesterday. By the time we were ready to hit the road, the rain stopped. We fueled up and headed down Highway 101 to Astoria. From Washington, there is a 4-mile-long bridge spanning the Columbia River to Astoria, Oregon. The bridge was built in 1966, connecting US 101 in Oregon to Washington. Prior to the bridge completion, ferries linked Astoria and Washington.

We saw freight ships anchored at the mouth of the river, presumably waiting to sail up to Portland. In order for freighters to sail up the Columbia River, a pilot needs to board the ship. These pilots are specifically trained and certified to navigate the Columbia.

Astoria is named after John Jacob Astor. John Jacob Astor was a German-born American businessman. He was America’s first multi-millionaire. He established trading posts in the Great Lakes region to supply fur trappers. He also exported fur to Europe.

He expanded his trading posts west as the fur trade grew. He built Fort Astoria on the Pacific Coast in 1811. When he died in 1848, he was the wealthiest man in America. His net worth at the time was estimated to be 20 million dollars. According to Wikipedia, that would equate to more than 1.2 billion dollars in today’s money.

His great-grandson, John Jacob (Jack) Astor IV, was also a successful businessman. He was the richest passenger aboard the Titanic and died when it sank on April 15, 1912.

Today, the site of Fort Astoria is the town of Astoria, Oregon. Astoria has a population of about 10,000 people. We passed through the town and continued south on US 101.

I anticipated an easy drive. We had a couple of stops planned before we reached Chinook Bend RV Resort near Lincoln City. Every time I expect an easy drive, there’s a curve in the road. In this case, there were many curves as the highway meanders along the Oregon Coast.

Our Rand-McNally GPS was constantly chattering, “Warning, sharp curve ahead” or “Warning, winding road ahead.” Many sections of the highway are narrow with no shoulder. So much for an easy cruise down the coast. Donna enjoyed the ocean views while I kept my eyes glued to the road ahead.

Outside of Tillamook, Donna pointed out the Tillamook Country Smoker. The parking lot indicated RV parking on the right. When I pulled in, I realized there wasn’t any designated RV parking. The lot wasn’t very full, however the cars parked there were spaced in such a way that made it difficult for me to park.

I shoehorned our rig into a space and we went into the retail store. They had two-foot-long smoked beef sticks for $1. We bought a few and returned to the RV. Donna thought the Tillamook Country Smoker was the stop I’d planned. I told her earlier that we would stop in Tillamook to buy cheese at the factory store.

The Tillamook Cheese Factory is a few miles farther down US 101. Tillamook cheese can be found in stores from Portland, Oregon to Portland, Maine. The factory is run by the Tillamook County Creamery Association. There are more than 100 dairy farm families in the association.

cheese

Tillamook is mostly known for its cheddar cheese, but they also make other varieties. We sampled several cheeses and Donna bought five kinds, including a smoked gouda with cumin seeds.

We had lunch across the street from the factory at a small seafood cafe. Donna had an oyster burger and I had a crab melt. The crab melt was made with fresh crab claw meat on a toasted roll with melted cheddar. Yummy!

Before we hit the road, I phoned ahead to the Les Schwab Tire Center in Lincoln City. I wanted to confirm our arrival time. I’d made an appointment with them the day before.

The tires on our RV have plenty of tread and look to be in good shape. RVs rarely wear their tires out. The issue is tire age. Tires deteriorate with age due to UV exposure, ozone and general weathering. Tires have a date code on them. The Michelins on our coach are nearly eight years old.

Although they still looked good, I wasn’t comfortable with their age. Having a tire blow-out isn’t on my bucket list. I’d planned to replace them when we reached Oregon. I chose to replace them here for a couple of reasons. First, Les Schwab is a very reputable company with great service and reasonable prices. There are Les Schwab Tire Centers in other western states, but in Oregon there’s no sales tax, only Federal Excise Tax on tires. No sales tax is always a bonus!

It was raining hard with thunder and lightning when we reached Lincoln City. I wish I’d taken photos of the guys replacing our tires. Two guys did the work, all by hand. They don’t have a tire machine big enough for our wheels. They levered the old tires off the rim with large tire irons. Then they wrestled the new tires, each weighing about 90 pounds, onto the wheels.

Donna napped in the coach while the work was done. It took about two hours to change all six tires.

We checked in at the Chinook Bend RV Resort on the Siletz River around 5pm. It was still raining when I set up. We have a pullthrough site with full hook-ups and 50 amp service. With our Passport America discount, it’s less than $25/night.

Donna made dinner. She calls it “pantry food” when she wings it with whatever she finds in the pantry. In this case she made Chicken Tikka Masala from Patak’s jarred sauce.

tkmrsla

We’ll spend five nights here. Donna has some work to do. I have some relaxing to do. We’ll sightsee and maybe get a little fishing in.

Long Beach, WA

The weather here in Long Beach, Washington changes quickly. Yesterday started out dreary, with fog and heavy overcast. The fog was enough to interfere with our online connectivity. The campground wifi and our Verizon Jetpack were intermittent.

I unloaded the scooter from the trailer while Donna tried to get some work done. I cleaned the windshield and mirrors on the motorhome and just puttered around all morning.  While I was cleanin,g I noticed the center cap was missing from the left front wheel. What happened here? I have no idea how the cap came off.

Center cap gone!

Center cap gone!

Around noon we went for a ride. We stopped in the downtown area and had lunch at a fish market/cafe. It was still cloudy but the fog lifted and the sun was trying to break through.

Donna ordered a pound of Willapa Bay steamer clams. I vacillated back and forth over the rockfish tacos or rockfish and chips, I finally decided on the fish and chips. The tacos would have been healthier, but the lunch was delicious.

We rode down to the marina in Ilwaco. This is near the mouth of the Columbia River. Ilwaco is a hub of fishing activity. There are commercial fleets and sportfishing boats for hire moored there. There are also markets selling the freshest fish you’ll ever find.

Marina at Ilwaco

Marina at Ilwaco

We parked and walked along the marina. We made our way to Jessie’s retail store. Jessie’s is a wholesale fish processing plant but they also have a small retail market selling seafood that just came off of the boat. Donna bought a filet of King (Chinook) salmon and 8 large scallops.

Jessie's retail storefront

Jessie’s retail storefront

We rode back to the RV park and put the food away. Now it was mostly sunny out. We continued our ride up the peninsula to check the area out. Unfortunately, most of the beachfront is private with only occasional areas of public access. In the public access areas, you are allowed to drive vehicles on the beach! There are signs advising to stay on the upper hard packed areas. We decided against riding the scooter on the sand.

LngbchWLB

We rode about 10 miles up through the town of Surfside. There are numerous RV parks to be found along the way. Most of them are just narrow lots with RVs parked side by side. We stopped and looked at one that had good ratings in our guide. Anderson RV Park has a great location, right on the beach and only a few miles from town. However, the sites are all back-in sites and very tight. I’m not so sure if this area will be a destination for us again.

By now the day was sunny with temperatures in the 70s. By evening it clouded up, then cleared again.

After we returned, Donna had a writing project to complete. While she worked, I loaded the scooter and repacked the trailer. I opened the awning to allow it to dry in the sun. When we left Burlington yesterday, I had to roll up the awning in the rain. While I was working, I had a cedar plank soaking to cook the salmon on. We had cedar planked salmon with lemon and Herbes de Provence seasoning with roasted corn on the cob for dinner.

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After dinner we walked to the beach. As we were walking, I realized we were missing what was sure to be a fantastic sunset. There were a few high clouds tinged with red. We couldn’t see the sun. We had to walk past the hotel and down a path to get to the beach.

I was walking quickly and started to jog in order to see the sunset. I wanted to capture an image of it. We were a few minutes too late.

Sunset missed on beach trail

Sunset missed on beach trail

I rolled the awning up when we returned. It would be wet by morning with rain or dew. When I entered the coach I felt a wet spot under foot on the carpet. Oh no! I looked under the kitchen sink and saw water dripping from the lines to the faucet. I ran outside and shut off the water supply. I relieved the system pressure by opening the outdoor shower valve. I found the unions over the PEX compression fittings were loose. I tightened them and turned the water back on. How do plastic fittings on PEX plumbing lines work loose? I checked the other fittings for tightness. We had a space heater and fan blowing into the cabinet under the sink and over the carpet all night.

I woke up this morning to the sound of rain drops on the roof. I’m glad I did most of the packing yesterday, I only have to dump the tanks and disconnect this morning. Today we are heading down to Lincoln City, Oregon. I’ve made an appointment at the Les Schwab tire dealer there to replace our tires. Maybe they’ll have a replacement center cap for the left front wheel. We also have a reservation at the Chinook Bend RV Resort on the Siletz River, just outside of Lincoln City. We’ve booked five nights there.  We should have an easy 125 miles ahead of us.

 

Deception Pass

I didn’t post to the blog yesterday. We broke camp in the morning and had a long day planned. Before I get ahead of myself, I’ll tell you about our Labor Day.

Our grandchildren, Lainey and Gabi, stayed overnight with us Sunday night. Monday morning I was up around 7:20am.  I tried to wake the kids up. They need to get in the habit of getting out of bed early since they start school this week. They didn’t get out of bed, but they were semi-awake.

We took our time and cooked up a big breakfast. Donna made huckleberry pancakes and eggs while I cooked bacon on the grill. It was another sunny day. We really lucked out on the weather.

Most of the other campers in the RV park were pulling out. I guess their long weekend was coming to a close and it was time to get home and back to work. As the park quieted down, we took advantage of the indoor heated pool and hot tubi.

The hot tub was the deepest I’ve ever been in. It had to be at least four feet deep! It was also very hot. I got out of it after about five minutes and felt a little dizzy. I think the temperature was too high. I swam with the kids for about 20 minutes and that was it for me.

My daughter, Alana, joined us before we went to the pool. After the girls were done swimming, they took Donna shopping. They found a western wear shop in Mt. Vernon called “The Bony Pony.” While they shopped, I re-organized the trailer and loaded the scooter.

When they returned, Donna had a new pair of cowboy boots. They’re quite fashionable and the price was within reason, especially when taken in context of the prices at the boutique in Kalispell, Montana.

After shopping, the girls all played a round of miniature golf. Donna was the clear winner. She even made a hole-in-one!

 

Lainey and Gabi miniature golfing

Lainey and Gabi playing miniature golf.

Alana’s mother, LuAnn (my former wife), invited us to join her and her husband,  Jerry, for dinner. We left a little after 5pm and arrived at their house in Arlington about half an hour later.

We enjoyed a cocktail and hor d’oeuvres at a picnic table in the backyard. LuAnn and Jerry love gardening. In addition to the nice landscape, they also grow herbs and vegetables. Our snack and dinner included many garden fresh veggies.

Later we all sat together at the dinner table. The food was excellent and we talked for a couple of hours. The conversation was great and it was a very enjoyable evening.

Alana took us on a tour of Arlington before she drove us back to the campground. I lived here from 2001 to 2005. The old downtown doesn’t look too much different, but the development on the south and west parts of town is surprising.

After we returned to our motorhome, Alana sat and talked with us for about an hour. We’ll come back this way again, but we’re not exactly sure when that will happen.

Yesterday I woke to the sound of rain falling on the roof top. I wished I’d put up the awning the night before, but I didn’t. The rain was intermittent showers, but it came down hard at times. I really don’t like breaking camp in the rain, but I didn’t have any choice.

We drove away at 10am. We exited I-5 at Highway 20 and headed west to Fidalgo Island. We crossed Deception Pass which brought us to Whidbey Island. The Deception Pass bridge is narrow and the road bends to the right when driving on to the island. My timing was all wrong. Just as we entered the curve, a big semi tractor trailer rig came around in the oncoming lane. He crowded us as his trailer crossed over the center line. I braked and moved over to right as far as I dared. I heard a light scraping sound just as I cleared his trailer.

We continued on down the island through Oak Harbor and Coupeville to the Keystone – Port Townsend ferry. There were signs advising reservations for the ferry. I’ve been on this ferry many times and never heard of making reservations for it.

There are 22 ferries on Puget Sound operated by the Washington State Department of Transportation. The ferries serve walk-on passengers and vehicle traffic. This provides a way to cross the sound to the Olympic Peninsula without driving all the way around. They also travel to and from many islands, including the San Juan Islands. It’s the largest ferry fleet in the USA and third largest in the world.

We made it to the ferry at 11:40 and there was very little traffic. I paid $68.10 for our 50-foot rig with two people on board. Before the ferry sailed form the dock at 12:30, I inspected the coach. I found a light scrape in the paint at the bottom of the front basement compartment. I think I can rub it out. Halfway across the sound, the ferry slowed. This was unusual. The captain announced why were we slowing. There was a big freighter crossing the channel in the fog right in front of us. It was a large ship, but difficult to make out in the fog.

 

You just make out the superstructure of a large freighter in the fog

You can just make out the superstructure of a large freighter in the fog.

We each had a cup of clam chowder from the ship’s galley. A few minutes before we docked at Port Townsend, we returned to our coach. I was surprised to see our Rand McNally GPS indicating our position on the ferry. It showed our speed at 14mph.

Our Rand McNall RVND 7720 GPS knows we're on the ferry in Puget Sound!

Our Rand McNally RVND 7720 GPS knows we’re on the ferry in Puget Sound!

We left Port Townsend and followed Highway 20 to Shelton. From there, we made our way west until we found Highway 101. This brought us to our present position on the Long Beach Peninsula. They claim it’s the longest beach in the world. We’ll explore the area on the scooter today.

Labor Day

It’s Labor Day weekend. We’ve made our way to the west side of Washington. Here’s how we got here.

Saturday morning, Jimbo picked us up and we went out for breakfast at  the Mangy Moose in Priest River. I had biscuits and gravy with sausage, egg and hashbrowns. The server talked me into ordering the half-size serving and she was right. The half plate was more than enough. I can’t imagine anyone eating the full plate.

We had the slides in and jacks up around 11:30am. I stole a line from Captain Ron (starring Kurt Russell) and said, “It’s time to kick the tires and light the fires. There’s a big road ahead. If it’s gonna happen, it’s gonna happen out there.”

We drove down to I-90 at Sullivan in Spokane, then exited I-90 at Airway Heights. We crossed eastern Washington on Highway 2. This route is rural and takes you through wheat fields, sagebrush and small towns. I recognized many of the town names.

My kids were raised in Darrington, a small town in the north Cascades on the west side. High school B league basketball was high entertainment in that small logging town. Most years, either the boys’ team, the girls’ team or both would qualify for the state championship tournament in Spokane. Many of the little rural communities in eastern Washington would also qualify and compete in the tournament.

We left Highway 2 and drove up past the Grand Coulee Dam and Chief Joseph Dam. We hit Highway 20 and headed west into the north Cascade mountains. I was getting tired. I wanted to stop in Winthrop. We arrived there a little past 5pm and found the town was hopping. There were people in the streets and cars everywhere – most likely Westsiders coming over the pass to eastern Washington for a sunny Labor Day holiday. The rainy season starts earlier on the west side.

I looked for a place to park. We pulled into the Red Barn parking lot. Another RV was parked there, but it was posted “no overnight parking.”  I found another good-sized gravel lot that was empty across the street. I parked there and walked to the bicycle shop to seek permission for overnight parking. I was told it might be okay, but the lot belonged to the city and technically overnight parking wasn’t allowed.

I didn’t want to take a chance and have a knock on the door in the middle of the night. We backtracked towards Twisp and drove out to the rodeo grounds. There was a rodeo this weekend. We found a pasture full of trucks, trailers, tents and horses.

We pulled in and set up among the rodeo crowd. It was a beautiful spot and no one paid us any mind. Later the pasture turned into quite the party for the rodeo participants and their followers. We joined in with our neighbors from Texas.

Twisp - Winthrop rodeo grounds

Twisp – Winthrop rodeo grounds

In the morning a concession stand served Blue Star coffee, roasted in Twisp, Washington. I think it was the best cup of coffee I’ve ever had. We kicked the tires and lit the fires around 8:30am and drove up the North Cascade Highway.

Since it was Sunday morning on the holiday weekend, we found very little traffic. We climbed through Washington Pass and Rainy Pass without drama. Coming down the west side, I kept our speed in check and we enjoyed the scenery. I was pleasantly surprised as the skies stayed blue and clear after we crested the Cascades. I expected rain.

When I lived in western Washington, I was told to look south. If you can’t see Mount Rainer, it’s going to rain. Then look south. If you can see the top of Mount Rainer, it’s going to rain. It’s pretty easy to predict the weather in western Washington.

Ross Lake

Ross Lake

We stopped at a scenic overlook above Ross Lake. I would’ve liked to pull in at Diablo Dam, but one of the drawbacks with a big rig is that you can’t always stop where you wish. I couldn’t remember how big the parking area was across the dam. If I pulled in there, I would be committed and might have a real problem getting back out of there.

Sunny day over the pass

Sunny day over the pass

We made a stop at Rockport at the junction of Highway 530. I told Donna that bald eagles are usually roosting there. We walked a quarter mile down to the bridge over the Skagit River. No eagles were there. It must be too early in the season. I’ve seen dozens of eagles there at times. They feed on salmon running up the river. We saw several fisherman fishing for humpback salmon.

We pulled in to the KOA in Burlington a little past noon. We set up in the crowded campground and were joined by my daughter, Alana and her children Lainey and Gabi (Gabriella). We spent the afternoon together. The grandkids took advantage of the heated indoor pool.

I roasted fresh local corn on the cob and grilled marinated flank steak for dinner. We had the obligatory camp fire and roasted s’mores over the fire. Lainey and Gabi spent the night with us. All in all, a very enjoyable day.

Marinated flank steak

Marinated flank steak

Today we’ll kick back with the kids. We’ll probably have to dodge a few rain drops. Tomorrow we’ll move on.

Gabby enjoys s'mores

Gabi enjoys s’mores

 

Huckleberries

Yesterday we woke up around 7am, refreshed from a good night’s sleep in the Sanders County Fairgrounds pasture. There was a train track nearby, but the passing trains in the night didn’t bother us.

I had coffee and yogurt. I took my time writing yesterday’s post before we packed up and left. We were back on Route 200 around 10:30am. It was going to be a fairly short drive and we planned to make stops along the way.

Our first stop was in Thompson Falls, Montana. We parked on the street and walked down to view the Clark Fork River. It was a cool little town. Friendly people and lots of quirky little shops. The river runs along the south side of town just a couple of blocks off the main drag.

Clark Fork River

Clark Fork River

There’s a dam and small reservoir here as well. The water level on the reservoir can vary by as much as four feet in a day!

thmpsnflls

We walked along the river and reservoir then returned to our coach via Main Street. We stopped in a little flower shop that had a sign saying they had fresh huckleberries for sale. We bought a quart of huckleberries. They’re one of my favorites and I haven’t had them since I left Washington state in 2005.

Donna with a quart of huckleberries at the Thompson Falls reservoir

Donna with a quart of huckleberries at the Thompson Falls reservoir

We cruised up Route 200 and were thankful we chose this route. The scenery was unbelievable. At one point we pulled into a turn out and walked to the river. The Clark Fork River flows from Montana westward into Idaho and empties into Lake Pend Oreille.

Turnout on route 200

Turnout on route 200

View of Lake Pend Oreille through the trees

View of Lake Pend Oreille through the trees

Further up the road, I pulled off near  the town of Clark Fork and followed a road towards the river hoping to find a picnic area. I feared I’d made a big mistake as I didn’t know where the road led or whether we would be able to turn around. A few miles down the road, we found a small RV park. I entered the park and was able to get turned around.

The park host told us we should look for a turnout on the left with geological information once we returned to Route 200. We found the turnout a short time later and stopped for lunch. It had a great view of Lake  Pend Oreille. There were also placards with information regarding the formation of the lake and the ancient Missoula ice dam there. We had a light lunch consisting of tabouleh salad and feta cheese.

geolsign

lkpordside

We continued onwards and crossed into Idaho. At Sandpoint, we found parking on the street and stopped again. Sandpoint is another cool town. It is somewhat touristy, but not overboard. There are lots of little shops downtown and a great beach on the lake. We stopped at Starbucks and sat outside on a deck overlooking a marina.

We walked through the downtown. When we walked down to the city beach, we found a small RV park! We talked to a guy camped there and he told us the park was run by the adjacent Best Western Hotel. We walked over to the hotel and inquired about rates and availability for next year. They are completely booked up from July 3rd to Labor Day.

We may return there in June. Staying at the RV park entitles you to use the hotel amenities including heated indoor pool, hot tub and exercise facility. Not too shabby. And you’re right on the lake and within walking distance to all the downtown shops. There are also biking paths to ride out of town.

From there we drove to our destination for the day, Priest River. I parked in the grocery store lot. Donna went in to resupply our provisions. While I was waiting in the coach, someone knocked on the door. It was Jimbo’s wife, Cindy Birditt. I haven’t seen her in nearly 20 years, it took me a moment to realize who it was.

Cindy arranged courtesy parking for us in a small industrial complex on the edge of town. In Priest River the edge of town means we are looking at forest out the front windshield. Nice.

Once we were set up, I got online and found a message from another old friend, Howard Brutschy. He knew from yesterday’s blog post that I would pass through Sandpoint and invited us to cruise Lake Pend Oreille in his houseboat. Too bad I didn’t see his invitation earlier! Hopefully we can time things better next time through.

Jimbo drove over and picked us up. We went to town for a cocktail at Jammers. We were joined by Jimbo’s neighbors, Mike and Linda, and went to a Mexican restaurant. The food was delicious. I haven’t had Mexican food that good since we left Arizona more than four years ago.

After dinner we all convened at Jimbo and Cindy’s house a few miles outside of town. Donna was the designated driver – Jimbo loaned us a truck to drive back “home.”  We sampled some whiskey and had a great time talking about old times together.

Today we’ll join them for breakfast and then head westward once again. Donna is making huckleberry muffins as I type this and they smell delicious.

I don’t know where we’ll stop tonight. Tomorrow we have reservations at a KOA in Burlington, Washington on the west side of the Cascades. I plan to travel over the North Cascade Highway tomorrow.

Rodeo

Yesterday we took our time prepping for a day on the road. Donna started the day with walk. No bear encounters this time. In fact, I’m surprised at the lack of wildlife sightings. We’ve only come across antelope on the way here, a few deer sightings and Donna’s bear encounter. I was hoping to see big horn sheep and mountain goats.

We hit the road at 11am. Our route took us back down highway 89. This is a tough slog with steep hills and tight turns. We planned to take a short cut across MT49 to US 2. We saw a sign that advised “no vehicles over 21′ long on MT49.” Oh well, so much for the shortcut. We continued on to Browning and picked up US 2 there.

Shortly we were hit by a thunderstorm. This was inevitable since I spent 2 1/2 hours washing the coach and trailer yesterday. We didn’t have a destination today, We only knew we wanted to take Route 200 toward Idaho where we will visit my best friend, Jim Birditt, in Priest River.

In Kalispell, Donna spied a shop called Redneck Chic. It was a women’s western wear boutique. Donna has been wanting to find a pair of cowboy boots. I found a place to park and we walked to the store. They didn’t have her size in the boots she liked. It was probably just as well since the “discount price” was $450.

A little after 5pm, we hit Route 200 at Plains, Montana. Coming through town, Donna was looking for a place to park for the night. Driving through the Lewis and Clark National Forest, we didn’t find any place suitable for a big rig to pull off.

Donna saw a county fairgrounds sign. We followed the signs to the fairgrounds and found the Sanders County Fair was happening. They had RV parking and presently we are parked in a fairly level pasture. Donna cooked linguini with clam sauce for dinner and then we walked to the fair.

Linguini with Clam Sauce

Linguini with Clam Sauce

It was the usual county fair midway. The only difference was no admittance fee! There was an arena and we learned that bull riding was about to start. We bought tickets for the rodeo and watched the bull riding. I asked Donna, “Did I ever tell you about the time I rode a bull?” It’s a standing joke. She’s heard this story many times. I won’t let that stop me from telling it now though.

It was 1976. I was living in Longmont, Colorado with my high school buddies, Jim Birditt and Chris Nirschl. I found work at Anderson Fence Company. During my job interview, the foreman, Merle, said to me, “We have this opening on account of the last guy quit. You want to know why the last guy quit?” I said, “Okay.” He said, as he was looking at my shoulder length hair, “The last guy quit because the cowboys on the crew cut his hair.” I replied, “If the cowboys want to cut my hair, they’ll have a heck of a fight.” He said, “When can you start?”

Me, back in the day

Me, back in the day

Shortly after I began working on the crew as a laborer, another long haired guy was hired. His name was Brad. The cowboys constantly teased us. One day as I was hauling a wheelbarrel full of concrete, a cowboy named Harvey was making catcalls at Brad. Brad had enough and said, “You guys think you’re so tough, well we’re just as tough. Mike and I will ride a bull and show you.” What? Mike and I? What could I say?

When I came home from work and told my roommates what happened, Chris said, “Are you serious? They aren’t talking about the dairy cows down the street. Have you seen the bulls they ride?” He drove me out to a ranch and showed me a proper bull. It was huge and rippling with muscle. I grew up in San Diego and had never even been to a rodeo at that point.

About a week later, Harvey approached us and said he’d made arrangements for us to ride at the rodeo in Greeley on Saturday. He said, “Wear gloves and a jock strap. A couple of cowboys will lend you bull ropes.”

Saturday we drove up to the arena in Greeley. Harvey introduced us to a couple of pro bull riders. They told us what was about to go down. I had no clue. The cowboy walked me down the catwalk behind the chutes and told me how to get the rope set up. He said not to waste too much time. Once I had the rope wrapped around my glove, I needed to go. The chute can be dangerous as you’re in a confined space with the animal. If the bull becomes agitated in there, it can be bad.

I asked him why the bull doesn’t buck as soon as I climb on. That’s when I found out how this works. He told me about a device called a flank strap. This is a strap wrapped around the bull just ahead of his hind quarters. When the gate is opened, an operator pokes the bull with a cattle prod providing an electric shock. This makes the bull jump. He said, “When the bull jumps, the flank strap pulls at his gonads and he thinks you did it.” Oh my. What have I gotten in to?

We drew lots to determine which bull we would ride and what the order would be. Brad drew a mean looking 1,800-pound Brahma bull. I drew a 1,600-pound Charolais. I would ride right after Brad.

Brad’s turn came up and he was very stylish. He climbed aboard the bull and strapped his hand in place. He held his cowboy hat in his free hand and yelled, “Let ‘er rip!” The chute opened and he had a great ride. He came flying off the bull just after the 8-second buzzer. You need to ride 8 seconds to attain a score and Brad made it.

However, when he was thrown off the bull, I watched him fly through the air in a superman pose. He hit the dirt in a belly flop. I was very close to him, watching from the cat walk and heard the wind knocked out of him. At that moment the bull swung around and one of his rear hoofs came down in the small of Brad’s back. Brad made a sickening groaning sound. Two cowboys dragged him from the arena. I was stunned.

The chute operator looked at me and said, “You’re up.” Oh man. I looked across the arena and saw my friends sitting in the bleachers. I saw Harvey, the cowboy on our crew. I saw a couple of good -looking young girls watching me in anticipation of my ride. I climbed on. What else could I do?

I wrapped the bull rope around my gloved hand tightly and sat on it. I said, “Hit it” and all hell broke loose. The cowboy that schooled me knew this bull. He advised me not to lean forward at all. This bull had a reputation for throwing his head back. If the rider were to lean forward, he would be smacked in the forehead and knocked out cold.

I thought about that for about a second before I quit thinking altogether. The ride was so violent, I couldn’t even see. My eyeballs were rattling in my head and the world was a blur. About five seconds later, I was airborne. I didn’t know up from down and had no idea where terra firma was. I found out when I landed on my head and right shoulder. I staggered out of the arena before any more damage could be done.

That was my one and only rodeo experience. I vowed to never get involved with that again.

The next Monday, Brad didn’t come to work. He was still nursing a sore back. Harvey came up to me and said, “I have to hand it to you guys. It takes big cajones to ride a bull.” Then he added, “I’d never do that. Bull riders are crazy. I ride saddle bronc.” The cowboys on the crew never teased us again.

Today we’ll head up Route 200 through Sandpoint, Idaho to Priest River. We’ll visit my old friend, Jim Birditt (aka Jimbo or JB). Maybe I’ll ask him if he remembers the time I rode a bull in Greeley, Colorado.

 

Pasture at Sanders County Fairground

Pasture at Sanders County Fairground