Florence, Oregon

We settled in to our site at the Florence Elk’s RV park Thursday afternoon. I got Midget-San out of the trailer and covered it, then set up the Weber Q grill. Donna took a walk to reconnoiter the area and found a trail to Mercer Lake.

Our site in the Elk’s overflow meadow

We have 50amp electrical service and fresh water at this site, but no sewer, so we’re being careful about the amount of gray water we put down the drain.

Donna manned the grill and cooked chicken thighs for dinner. She served it with sweet potato mash and roasted Brussel sprouts.

Grilled chicken thigh plate

After dinner, I sat outside and puffed a cigar and caught a nice sunset through the trees.

Sunset through the trees on a clear night

I don’t take photos of breakfast plates usually, but Friday morning, Donna outdid herself. She cooked up a zucchini frittata with cherry tomatoes and served it with sausage patties and sliced avocado. A great start to the day.

After lunch, we drove south a couple of miles on US101 and turned off at Heceta Beach Road. We wandered west to a beach access, but didn’t stop there. We continued south on Rhododendron Drive through a beautiful neighborhood until we found public parking and beach access at the north jetty. This jetty marks the mouth of the Siuslaw (SIGH-you-slaw) River.

The Siuslaw River originates in the coastal mountain range east of Florence and passes south of town before it turns north and finally bends back west where it meets the Pacific Ocean.

Siuslaw River meets the Pacific – south jetty on the left, north jetty on the right
Looking upriver from North Jetty Park, the Siuslaw River bends south to Florence

The beaches in the area have fine, powdery sand held together in places with clumps of American Beach grass. The wind shapes dunes in the sand – some of them are quite large. We heard about sand boarding the dunes – it’s like snowboarding, but on sand dunes.

Sandy trail bordered by beach grass at the north jetty
The backside of some dunes – the windward side faces the ocean and has less beach grass

The population of Florence is about 10,000, but the town sprawls and feels larger. We drove to the Old Town district of Florence and cruised Bay Street, right on the water front. We parked at the public lot near the Boardwalk Market and got out to walk the market. The market is usually open on Saturdays and Sundays, but we were told that some stalls are open on Fridays in August. There’s also a marina on the river here and some nice restaurants. I’ll have to stop in the Beachcomber Pub next time – this pub was established in the 1960s by the father of our friend, Scott Hicks. Donna bought some yellow nectarines and cherry tomatoes sourced from northern California. The fruit was fresh and tasty.

Before we headed back, we made a stop at Fred Meyer – a northwest grocery store that also carries some household goods and clothing. Donna wanted to restock the pantry and we found some good deals. We bought T-bone steaks and I found a nice looking rack of babyback ribs for only $1.77/lb – deal! We had the steaks with baked potato and asparagus Friday evening.

On Friday afternoon, a guy with a travel trailer pulled into the meadow. He was looking at the site next to us and wanted to move the picnic table. I went out to help him. We discussed the best way to get his trailer where he wanted it. He told me wasn’t too good at reversing his trailer. I directed him into the site. He was right, he wasn’t too good at backing the trailer in. I instructed him by telling him which way to turn the steering wheel. The mistake he kept making – along with turning the wheel in the wrong direction – was turning the steering wheel too quickly. He would go from full lock one direction and then when I said to start straightening out, he would go to full lock in the other direction. After a few false attempts, we got him positioned.

Saturday we drove back north on US101 to sightsee. We went up around 15 miles to Ten Mile Creek and parked in a small lot at Stonefield Beach. There’s a short, sandy trail there to beach. The beach was nearly empty. One girl hiked in ahead of us with a beach chair and I could see a few people nearly a quarter of mile up the beach. It seems strange to me – I’m used to seeing crowds on the beach in southern California.

Donna at Stonefield Beach

We made a few stops on the way back south. The first stop was at a scenic turnout just north of Sea Lion Caves. Looking to the north, the view included a small beach area bordered by cliffs at Devil’s Elbow and in the distance was Heceta Head with a lighthouse on the point.

Heceta Head lighthouse on the point on the left, Devil’s Elbow and beach

At the turnout, a young guy parked his old car by us. It was a 1952 Chevrolet DeLuxe painted pearl white. The pearlescent finish reminded me of the paint found on some Audi’s in the early ’90s. The guy said he liked old cars and Donna remarked to me that with his clothing and hair style, he looked like he just came from the ’50s.

1952 Chevy
Midget-San at the turnout

Our next stop was at Sea Lion Caves. There’s a gift shop there and also you can buy tickets to ride an elevator down to the cave – billed as America’s largest sea cave. Tickets are $14 for an adult, $13 for seniors. Because the sea lions are out to sea, they were discounting tickets and offering a free return ticket for any time in the next 12 months. We opted not to go down.

View of beaches to the south of Sea Lion Caves

On Saturday evening, Donna made shrimp with peppers, tomatoes, basil and feta cheese. I had my dish over whole wheat spaghetti and Donna served hers over spaghetti squash.

Shrimp over pasta

The shrimp was another deal at Fred Meyer. Donna bought extra large wild Argentine red shrimp, peeled and de-veined for $9.99/lb. Have you noticed our new bowls? They were a gift from a member of the Buy Nothing group in Arlington – a set of 4 porcelain bowls still in the box.

The weather here has been more agreeable than Newport. It’s drier with warm, clear afternoons in the low 70s. The nights are cooler, dropping into the mid-50s. The afternoons have been windy though. Winds are supposed to continue with gusts up to 24mph today, then diminish tomorrow.

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